Württemberg is famous for co-operatives cellar, red wine production, wine consumption highest per head in Germany and Trollinger (probably the leanest red wine the whole word). Yet, let me point out two sites beside the Neckar River with stunning views and surprising terroir and co-op who does very correct, clean and enjoyable wines.

Travelling north of Ludwigsburg on the highway 81 (A81) (between Stuttgart and Heilbronn) there is an exit to Dripsdrill (fun fair park) and to Hessigheim, Mundelsheim. You find yourself in a split second away from the busy highway in a valley of tranquillity and eye-catching landscape, you could call it “mini-Mosel” but I prefer to leave it to it´s own identity as soil, grape varieties and a lot more are rather different, compared to the Moselle.
If you think wine tasting or not even the fun fair is enough adventure for you, you could do rock climbing at the official sites which are welcoming novice and expert climbers alike. I stay with my wine and visit the steep vineyards which by the way are partly irrigated. As in Württemberg slopes over 30% incline are allowed to irrigate (most are terraced which makes work easier) if weather conditions say so.

Flurbereinigung (restructuring of the vineyards) was in most German vineyards a hard work and not every one was a fan of it, but this was mainly due to the later introduced law (Grosslage conception). According to the Felsengarten Winery on a 90 m high vineyard slope with 35 terraces on a 1 km long stripe they have 52.000 m2 stonewall which is similar to the size of 8 footballs fields. Hard to imagine the immense work behind it.

The mentioned two superb sites are the Mundelsheimer Käsberg which is around 14 ha has been mentioned back in the XVIII. century and it´s not just the steep slopes and the soil, over 40% incline and shell limestone (Muschelkalk, fossils) but the positioning to the river, south and south east facing in the bend, like in an amphitheatre. The continuation of this is the Wurmberg which stops before Heissigheim but resumes after the town and ends just before Walheim where the Enz River meets the Neckar. The word Käsberg means cheese mountain and is probably related to the white stones, as in Schwab dialect “käs weiß” means very white (or white as a cheese), while Wurmberg means worm mountain which is probably related to the shape of a worm.
Exciting terroir (particularly the Käsberg) but unfortunately not a lot is happening when it comes down to the finishing product. Let´s be honest Trollinger (originated in South Tyrol, probably) is a cuffing wine and not meant to be for greatness. As a story tells the Trollinger used to be for the “simple” people while the noblemen drunk the Lemberger (Blaufränkisch, Kékfrankos). Nowadays people drink more and more of the Trollinger mit Lemberger (blend, “mit” means with), as they say “Schwäbische Demokratie”.

Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) could become interesting in the cooler micro sites while Lemberger could be better suited for the warmer micro sites within the single vineyards. It´s really a waste unless you would make stunning Trollinger but to be honest I haven´t had one and people do not expect a deep, full wine when they see Trollinger on the label but rather a lean, easy drinking red wine. But of course the price point is a crucial issue too.

Talking about price, yield is playing a major role and works inverse to the quality of the wine. The more you harvest (the higher your average yield) the more you get on the scale but not in terms of density (Oechsle), quality in the finishing wine. It´s a delicate balance when you part of a co-operative team as you will be paid by Oechsle (must degree) and harvested fruit depending of course what grape variety you submitting. There are many reasons against co-operatives but no one can doubt that if they make good everyday drinking wine properly priced. Further on, if the customer and the growers are happy with the price, no harm is done.

The Felsengarten Kellerei (FK) is one of the biggest co-operatives in the area, their history dates back to 1938 when several wine makers came together to make the harvest together.
Today modern facilities allow up to 750.000 kg of grape to be processed in one day (maximum capacity/day) and as earlier mentioned most weight (Oechsle), weight (kg) and grape variety play (Trollinger is cheaper then Lemberger for instance) a major role when it comes down to payment to the members. For the basic red wines thermo vinification is applied, the crushed juice is heated for around 5 minutes to 85 °C despite the advantage (early maturing, fruity wine, good coloured must) the results are rather cooked flavours. The better wines (e.g. Terra S, Composition) uses the traditional method of fermenting. Several stainless steel tanks (12,5 million litre capacity) but also oak barrels every size can be found in the winery. The major grape variety you guessed it, it´s Trollinger the second is Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier) probably better suited for sparkling (Champagne) wine then still wine.

I´m sure you getting the idea that I´m not the greatest fan of these grapes (but rather their wines-as I haven´t had good experiences) and I´m not making a lot of friends by punching on the two major red grape varieties of Württemberg as there are plenty of people who love these wines. I do appreciate and respect this. However, I firmly believe that Lemberger (and of course Spätburgunder and Riesling as well) is/are meant to be for greatness while Trollinger if made well remains a simple fellow only. By adding süssreserve (unfermented grape juice) you still haven´t lifted it nowhere just made an off-dry or sweet red wine. One Trollinger Wurmberg from the FK in the litre bottle has 13 g/l residual sugar, amazing how much “sun shine in bags” it got. There are wines which have even more. An interesting story is the Samtrot or Schwarzriesling Auslese which has above 23 g/l residual sugar (RS). Here no chaptalisation and no süssreserve is allowed according to German Wine Law yet how in Earth can you achieve 23 g/l RS with around 12% alc. vol. I leave the guess work for you -I have some possible answers- but I´ll ask them next time when I´m again there.
But despite these oddities there is a lot of very enjoyable stuff around (wine and grape/wine related products). Particularly the whites, clean, refreshing, crisp and good fruit. The rosé style (Blanc the Noir, Weissherbst) are also very popular and no doubt there´re pleasant indeed. In the premium segment there is big increase in quality and you would say a day/night difference, a lot which the winery does in terms of marketing, labelling is positive too. There are leaders amongst the co-operatives not only in Württemberg but also in Germany. Customers happy with the product and there are well priced, this is was matters. Württemberg is different then the other wine making areas of Germany, local people lover their product very much, as the slogan says “Kenner trinken Württemberger”, people who know their stuff are drinking wine from Württemberg, or something like that. I recommend the premium segment and all the whites (including the sweets) from the FK.

During my last trip into the Württemberg Lower Land West, we also discovered a very good restaurant, owned by the Rembold Family in Botenheim, Adler (Eagle).
Address: Restaurant Adler in Brackenheim-Botenheim, Hindenburgstr. 4 (main road which goes through the town) Telefon: 0 71 35/98 11-0

http://www.adlerbotenheim.de/

Open: 12:00 – 14:00 and 18:00 – 22:00
Closed on Tuesday, reservation recommended.

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