Feb 20 2009

Peru Wine at the Tacama Winery

Published by Kristian Kielmayer at 3:35 pm under Peru Pisco and Wine

Peru makes not only it’s wine brandy (Pisco) but wine as well. In Lima I tasted the wines of Tabernero which I must say – quite liked (Merlot-Malbec 2005 & Cabernet Sauvignon 2006). But also had some less famous experience with the Borgoña wine (which must be Concord), mostly sweet and unpleasant red wine.

Guillermo recommended to visit the Tacama Winery in Ica one of the biggest and best wineries in Peru.

Good 25 minute drive from the centre of Ica is the Bodega de Viña Tacama. It was founded in 1635, by the Spaniards and it started it’s history as a convent. The church is still there, and most buildings are painted red. Yet the Spanish started the vineyard plantings in South America, so in Peru but at the Tacama Winery the French influence of the new age is very visible. Not just Frederique the chief wine maker is in charge but also the homage to Emile Peynaud.dsc08974
The winery has its own nursery and more then 20 grape varieties are tested or meant for plantings if they work out fine. So for instance if some vine/grape variety doesn’t work out (e.g. Syrah) they try something else.
The harvest for the table grapes usually starts around December while the whites (e.g. for Blanc de Blanc wine) in January. There is no lack of sunshine in these dessert like conditions. The most water is used in January-March, 60% drip irrigation the rest flooding.

The main soil is a loose stony sand and clay, the winery has 230 acres of plantings. The most popular training method is double T, the average yield for wine is between  50… tonnes/ha while the table grapes reach up to 15000 tonnes/ha. Grapes are a popular fruit to eat and in Ica you almost certain to bump into some “moving merchants” who sell it, usually Quebranta with huge berries in two colours (white/pinkish).

Elizabeth showed me around, the vines (including the nursery) and the winery. She said that the red grapes/wines receive a 2 weeks maceration the rose only 1 night. Later one is very popular in Peru as well. 28ºC is the temperature on what the red wines ferment, however by tasting some of them, I had a feeling that they’re pre- heated, as most of them had this cooked candy, fruit aroma/flavour. Beside the wines Tacama also does Pisco from Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Mollar, Italia, Moscatel, Albilla, Uvina and Torontel. The first three are non aromatic grapes while the rest is aromatic as they say. Their flagship Pisco is the Domoni de Los Andes (Quebranta grape).

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Overall I enjoyed the whites of the Tacama Winery, promising and good indeed while the reds were agreeable and correct. Good to see Peruvian wines as good as Tacama. See tasting notes here and at the very end of this.

Pisco Sour

1 oz (30 ml) Pisco
3 to 4 ice cubes
jarabe de goma (can syrup or use simple syrup)
lemon juice as you like
1/2 egg white

Serve in a cocktail glass
If you want your Pisco sour drier use half ounce (15ml) lemon and 15ml syrup.

Algarrobina
30 ml Pisco
3 to 4 ice cubes
15 ml cacao cream
30 ml evaporated milk
15 ml algarrobina
1 egg yolk
8 ml jarabe de goma (syrup)

Serve in flute

Pisc Sunrise
30ml Pisco
3 to 4 ice cubes
15 ml granadina syrup
1 spoonful of orange juice
Serve in a long glass

Peru Libre
30 ml Pisco
3 to 4 ice cubes
1 slice of lemon
Serve in a long glass

Daiquiri de Pisco (peach)
30 ml Pisco
15 ml peach syrup
15 ml lemon juice
15 ice cup frapé
Serve in a medium Cognac glass

Source:El Peru y El Pisco

Tasted wines

Blanc de Blanc 2007
Pale colour, fruit drive on the nose clean and crisp. Dry, friendly and crisp acidity, correct fruit on the palate, clean and easy going, nicely made.

Gran Blanco 2007
Blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viogner, Chenin and Semillion.
Whiff of cream, Chardonnay going strong. Dry, malo-fermentation, juicier drive with a medium finish.

Selection Specialle 2007
Tannat and Petit Verdot
Ruby colour, slightly cooked on the nose, going coarse. Red fruit but the heat is turned on.

Gran Tinto 2007
Malbec, Petit Verdot, Tannat in 2008 also some Shiraz was added to the blend.
Medium ruby colour, quite a meatball on the nose. Red fruit with spice. Yet there is some heat in the wine, juice red fruit finish but slow on the palate. Medium.

Terroix 2007
Malbec and Tannat combination. Ruby colour, spice on the nose with some red fruit. Juicy, dry yet a soft drive on the palate. Good weight, medium finish.

Chenin Blanc 2007
Clean, medium straw yellow colour, with some pencil shaving and green apple, floral notes on the nose.
Medium dry, with medium acidity, more and more riper on the palate after a time, round, easy to drink, medium sweet wine.

Albilla 2007
Late harvest, and no must concentration. Straw yellow colour with an aromatic floral, apricot nose. Sweet, fresh zippy, aromatic with a tickle of CO2, delicious finish.

Albilla Pisco
Clean colour, grapy aroma on the nose, clean drive bit of a pine resin on the finish and has some bite to it.

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