The centre of Bolivia wines is in Tarija, between 21-22º latitude south close to the Tropic Capricorn. The closest neighbouring wine region would be that of Salta, Argentina. Despite the delay the fastest way to get to Tarija is by air (Aerosur) from La Paz, otherwise Road NR. 1 is connecting it with the north. The region was founded on the 4th July 1574 by Captain Don Luis de Fuentes y Vargas. Population of the department is 300.000 while the capital Tarija has 110.000 people.

Despite that I have tasted only a handful of wines and visited even less wineries I do feel much closer to Bolivian wine as before and might even become an admirer of them (mainly reds). Tarija often called the “Andalusia of Bolivia” and I reckon with right, it has its flair and charm, good restaurants (e.g. La Taberna Gattopardo on the main square), wine shops (e.g. Vinoteca Tarijeña 616 calle Sucre) and much more…

A pleasant high altitude (after La Paz or Potosi) of 1840 m is Tarija and the surrounding towns and vineyards most of the times higher, 2200-2500m. The Ruta del Vino y del Singani (Wine and Spirit Route) goes from Tarija (or Sella 21km North of Tarija) towards South, reaches places as Santa Ana, Concepcion and in the very South Chaguaya (68 km from Tarija). Three rivers cross the region, Rio Guadalquivir, Santa Ana, Rio Camacho.

According to my sources the total of the vineyard area is 2000 ha, the main soil formation is sandy stone and clay.

Vinos de Altura, you’ll find this on the label quite often. And indeed not many vineyards is the world are situated over 2000 m of sea level, and still get enough sun shine. Actually they really need the fresh and cool air high up, specially the whites (got not convinced that Riesling, works at such warm/hot conditions) but most of the terrain is still flat or just slightly elevated. The industrial wines who are making the wine for export market are only a handful yet dominate the quality, while the artisan wineries are very popular in the local areas (usually un bottled, more often sweet).

The most important grape varieties are the following: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Barbera, Tannat, Oporto (Portugieser), Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Franc Colombard, Chardonnay, Torrontes, Ugni Blanc.

Without a complete list I would mention the following bodegas (quality producers): Kohlberg, Campos de Solana, La Concepcion (Rujero), Aranjuez, Sausini, Magnus, Casa Grande, Casa Real, Kuhlmann/Tres Estrellas, San Vincente. The later three specialized in singani. Singani is a Bolivian Wine brandy (very similar to Pisco) wine then distilled above 40% abv. It can be made out of white or black grapes alike, but the most popular choice is Moscatel Alexandria. It also has a DO according to the Law 1334 from 1992. Popular also as an ingredient for different cocktails (chuflay).

The wine and spirit route is developing nicely and more and more travel agencies offer trips into the area yet there is also plenty of work to do. The Asociacion Nacional de Industriales Vitivinicolas (ANIV) together with Cenavit, Fautapo, Cadena Productiva de Uvas, Vinos y Singanis web site elevating and helping Bolivian wines. There is also a good book published, Wines of Bolivia available in Spanish/English with great pictures and good information on Bolivian wine.

Argentina has its Malbec, Chile its Carmenera (and Merlot for sure), Uruguay its Tannat. And what about Bolivia? Hard to tell, looking at the grape varieties of the major players I could not tell for certain. Maybe Syrah as a lot do it (tasted the Kohlberg, very impressive) but it could be Cabernet Sauvignon as well (Casa Grande) which ever, but it sure should be a red if we pick a flagship grape/wine. It would be good to taste some Chardonnay or Ugni Blanc as well, hopefully next time. Bolivian wine and also the wine tourism can be promising and it was worth while the effort to fly down to South Bolivia and see if for myself. And despite the very hard trip back to the North on the bus: dirt road, tight curves and a bridge missing over the river additional river crossing on foot…you might relax a bit more if you have some good Bolivian wine on your way..

Trackback URI | Comments RSS