The Pan American Highway goes somewhat north of Peru into Ecuador and Colombia and continues southwards from Lima all the way to Tacna where after entering Chile the Road number one becomes nr. 5.

Lots of bus companies go to the South towns like Pisco, Ica or Nazca just to name a few: Ormeno, Flores or Soyuz (Peru Bus). People point out to use rather one of the companies who have an office away from the central station (e.g. Soyuz) as it’s a doggy area with pickpockets and thieves. My best advise to all travellers is general is to be careful and always be aware of your surrounding. Taking an official taxi to the station (around 3-4 USD from Miraflores) is the easiest way, buses depart frequently and to get seats is an easy task. Before entering the bus the security guard checked my hand luggage this reminded me to the article which I read a few days before in one of the news papers, a bus got stopped in the morning hours and got robbed by means with guns. Security is important the only questions which remains: who is checking the passengers who is entering the bus after the main terminal with a metal detector? No one. Does it make sense, I reckon little. But off you go… Seat reservation is given with the ticket and keep it close by as it will be checked quite a few times, by at least two different people and the longer the trip is the often they get back to you.
Leaving the capital lots of sand dunes pop up along the east and west side, simple and small settlements.

My first stop was to the town of Pisco which is after Chincha Alta, as the bus does not go into the town I had to get off the highway, taking a taxi to the downtown is easy, but as usually in Peru handle out the price, around 3-5 pesos seemed to be reasonable for this ride. The driver was telling me about the earthquake which happened back in 2007, 6.2 on the Richter scale and the devastation is still visible 2009 very much so. Staying in the Los Incas Inn seemed to be a pleasant place family run property with small swimming pool and simple but fairly big rooms.

While walking the dusty streets of Pisco down to Plaza de Armas there is not much what the town it self can actually offer, the El Dorado Restaurant just in the centre seemed to be a happy place full with locals, always a good sign if you choose a restaurant. Love the gentle aromatic soups of the Peruvian gastronomy and a fried fish from the sea always a satisfying option (specially if its not over fried and killed again and again in the kitchen by the chef) after the bus ride.

Probably the most famous South American grape sprit the Pisco got its name from the town, as close by there is a port from where the spirit was shipped. The main tour which I can recommend is the Paracas National Reserve and Ballestas Islands. The full day tour for 60 soles (50 if you do only the boat tour) including the boat tour and Paracas National park seemed to be a good choice. However, you have to pay a few more sol at the jetty -1 sol- (El Chaco at Paracas village) and to enter the National Reserve as well (5 sol). On the way to the islands a huge cactus drawn into the sand appears, similar to the Nazca lines, just bigger and visible from the side s well, while the Nazca lines are only visible from above. Thousand of different bird species are on the island, very crowded one can almost not imagine how in earth are they capable to leave literally on each other. Beside the seabirds, pelicans, sea lions, penguins and various other animals live there. As Carlos the guide pointed out they have these wooden terraces to pick up guano every few years or so and use it otherwise, by the smell you could tell it was about time to ship out a load.

The name Paracas means sandstorm and it is sandy and windy indeed, beside the usually very hot weather. Fantastic costal formation and occasionally you can see flamingos.

Usually every 20 minutes is a bus passing by the highway but to be picked up is not always granted when the bus is really full you have to wait for the next one but you can be almost certain you get a ride. Buy the tickets when you already on the bus. In Ica there is a lot of activities around sand, sand boarding, dune buggies, etc. Local travel agencies seemed to have plenty of programs. The major ones are around Plaza de Armas, Ica a mid sized but very loud town thanks to the small tuk-tuks, taxis and cars on the street. It seemed that the horn must been attached to either the brake or acceleration pedal or most of the time probably to both. All kind of horns are used mainly for no reason of course. Ask your local hotel how much is a taxi or tuk-tuk ride and pay only the local fair. Tuk-tuk should be around 1-2 sol while taxis a few sol more. Fixed prices, as always in Peru handle the fair out upfront.
Otherwise beside lots of sand Ica is the centre for wine and Pisco in Peru. Lovely wine shop just North of the Plaza de Armas (almost on the corner) with a very good selection of local wine and pisco, tasting available just ask for it.
The main terminals in Ica seemed to be a busy place hence watch out, buses to Nazca the next major town along the Highway Number one are frequent, Flores but also Ormeno goes there.

On the way to Nazca you pass the platform from which you could explore around two-three lines. Some people say the hill further back is better then the platform, I did not really trusted this and did a fly as most people who I spoke with recommend this. Now here is an important thought on Nazca and tourism. I was told by people and also the hostel (notably WalkOn Inn, formerly Morburg) there is a lot of scam and bad business going on. Very important if you have your accommodation reserved and confirmed you go there no matter what they tell you at arrival (closed, not existing, booked out, etc.) I heard funnier stories then I was told in Bangkok at the Khao San Road. Ignore these people, take a cab 2-3 sol usually anywhere in the town centre and a bit outside and Nazca is everything but big, you can walk everywhere in town. My hostel for example booked the flight, for 50 USD which is fair, otherwise I suggest to can recommendation from people you can trust (e.g. friends, hostel, hotel) when it comes to the Nazca flight, don’t book the with the first option might be too much you paying. Good idea is not too eat to much before take off, otherwise it can happen you see your breakfast again in a half liquid half solid form, if you know what I mean.

There are lots of theories around the Nazca lines, one of them is according to Maria Reiche the lines some sort of pre-Inca calendar, lines with astronomical significance. Others say they were maps and guidelines to point out water resources as they are rare in these dessert conditions. And of course lots of other ideas poped up during the time…

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