There is a reason why I prefer trains oppose to buses. And I was soon to find out once again the reason for my preference. But unfortunately there are no trains (not even tracks) from Nazca to Cuzco and while it might sound foolish to consider going all the way back to Lima just to take a flight, I would always recommend once you flying direct Lima-Cuzco. Take a plane. The bus ride is long and painful, at least it was for me…

Part I.
Despite that I was actually halfway through and had to go only from Nazca along the Road 26 (seemed to be a good road on the map) via Abancay to Cuzco, I had my doubts. Not only did I not get a bus during daytime but also paid a higher price. 150 sol seemed to be fair but by talking to some locals they actually paid less, maybe with a different company, I don’t know. Cruz del Sur was my partner for this trip, and as they are not many companies a purchase a few days in advance specially in high season could be recommended. Official departure 23.30, the bus for Arequipa was also late, hence no wonder mine came also over an hour later to the station. Strange I was the only one to board the bus at the last pick up stop. Just locals, skipped the dinner on the bus which turned out to be a fantastic idea.

Nazca is on 619 m, Puquio 60km later already on 4246 m and it did not take long that we reached the Abra Huashuaccasa which is around 5300 m and I saw snow through the window in the dark. Paved road? No, not everywhere and in addition the curves and swift driving did not help much to calm me down further on the toilette was over spilling with urine and the smell got worse and worse. And there was this increase in altitude, upfront I thought, no way that this is going to affect me. Well it did…I was drying out, despite I was sipping my water bottle but the air was getting shorter and then this smell and the piss was spilling and reaching for the floor. This was a very short night with pain in my head and for my senses alike.

From 5AM onwards no sleep just catching for breath, smelling the urine and sipping water. At least they sorted out the toilet issue at Abancay between 8-9AM, distances on my Peruvian map seemed to be so close yet nothing was further from the truth. It was 15.00 when we arrived to the former capital of the Incas, Cuzco. The scenery was breathtaking and this actually literally as I was more concerned to get some air into my system. Flying through the curves, bends, gorgeous mountains, small villages, and green vegetation in high altitude, it was fantastic on one side but suffering on the other. Couldn’t even eat my breakfast –and this doesn’t happen too often-, just the tea did very well. “Welcome to Cuzco” says the pretty hostess in Spanish, arrival at 3pm at the Cruz del Sur, Cuzco station. My head was still hurting like little monkeys were banging from inside (almost as I had too much alcohol, but high altitude and booze, no way) and there was no way that this would go away very soon. And indeed it took a lot of coca tea (hot water is added to a cup full of coca leafs), more water and very slow walking. Slow moving was not always possible as in most places of South America pedestrians are seen almost as pray by drivers, who act as predators, trying to hunt them down. Less horn ringing this was my first thought when I entered the taxi on the streets of Cuzco, traffic is more calm when it comes to the music. I was telling this to my drivers, how crazy Ica for instance is. I don’t know if he misunderstood me, but he pushed immediately the horn, just to make me feel better, I guess. Great a loud honk is all what I need for my headache, now. Staying at the Frankenstein Hostel which has a great location as it´s really in the centre of Cuzco I can just recommend. Friendly, helpful staff in a clean environment.

Part II.
I thought there are several options from Cuzco to Puno, Puno at the Lake Titicaca which is the highest navigable lake in the world (3810 m). Bus and train, yes I was partly right, according to my guide book there was a train ride (tourist class) for 19 USD…history and no longer existing. Just for 143 USD, this is ridiculous and more expensive then in Western Europe (e.g. in Germany an ICE train from Stuttgart-Frankfurt a.M. ) where when you buy your ticket in advance you can always get a bargain. Peru Rail sucks, it´s official this is exploitation and stupidity, running the train only 3 times a week and charging fee´s out of this universe leaves me, a train enthusiast with no other option but use the bus (once again). Looking at the map the train track actually runs parallel to the main road anyway, usually just on a lower altitude and only at Pucara and Nicasio leaves the track the regular path. Hence I was less concerned with the view just with the actual idea. Later I met someone in Puno telling me that the train ride was nice, but she also said it´s like seeing it from the road more or less and the price was horridness. I felt positive deciding against Peru Rail by not supporting them in this exploitation and misuse.

There are several bus companies who offer guided tours (or the regular, local service) and stop along the road at the major sights, like Turismo Mer or First Class. I took the later one, but I reckon they are all the same. However what’s different is the price and by difference I mean the agencies all tend to have different prices for the same bus companies starting from 60 USD to I guess 30 USD, which I paid. Certainly you might get the entrance fees included in the higher price, but calculating this still doesn’t justify the much higher price. Hence, shop around its worth the effort! The very positive thing at First Class was the breakfast, I made my own Peruvian empanadas and had two juices to choose from. Nice. But that was about it to report on positive features. Toilet not working, guide not explaining unnecessary delay, unprofessional PR just to name a few. But if I´m honest it was not a big deal, I paid the lowest fare on the bus, had plenty of space, great view along the road and the lunch was fine as well. The first stop was some sort of market if I had any doubt that this wouldn’t be a tourist bus they were gone by this point. Oh yes, Peruvian like to sell stuff, we even got some presentation of a DVD on the bus which was available for purchase (40 sol). It was a tourist bus where people wanted to separate me from my money, but I resisted, quite well actually.

Stops and sights (major ones):
- Andahuaylillas (3122 m): a Sistine chapel with fine paintings and decorations inside and outside.
- Raqchi (3450 m): great archaeological centre with the temple dedicated to the Inca God Wiracocha
- La Raya (4335 m) the highest point and the dividing line between Puno and Cuzco districts
- Pukara (3900 m) town with important museum, ceramic from the first civilization which dates back 1600 B.C.

Bigger city then Puno but less interesting is Juliaca with an airport and lots of industry around. I don’t know how many times the guide said Puno the capital and centre of folklore in Peru but I sure remember it very well. The Hostel Inka Rest is a correct place with good facilities and helpful staff, I can recommend them also for tours to the Lake Titicaca…

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