Uruguay is the forth largest wine producer in South America with 8500 ha of vines planted and around 270 wineries (but much more smaller producers) 20 of them exporting. The major wine regions in Uruguay are close to the capital Montevideo. Concentrating around La Paz, Las Piedras and Canelones. Further away from the capital around the River Plate (Rio de la Plata) and along the Western border and in the North to the Brazilian border. It has to be pointed out that the fertile alluvial soil very close to the sea or river is not the best spot for quality production as it can become too vigorous.

While altitude plays a major role in Argentina, in Uruguay it’s far lower sea level and the Atlantic influence helps maintaining the cooling, yet humidity and the threat of fungal diseases is very much present. Irrigation is not common as rain sufficient despite the hot and fairly dry climate.

The history and wine history of Uruguay has close roots to Europe. It was the Italian and Spanish settlers who came to Uruguay and brought the grape vine with them, the Basque settlers have to be mentioned because of the Tannat grape which is originally from Madiran.

It the South West of France it produces usually wines with intense, deep colour and high tannins, rather rough, often used it in blends (adding colour to the finished wine) with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Fer. The newer clones provide more powerful wines with good alcohol and less acidity, oak aging (polymerisation of tannins, softening, micro oxidation, etc.) and time (bottle age) does help to improve the finishing wine at least in most cases.

Uruguay definitely is one with the Tannat grape and similar to Argentina (they did it with Malbec) they elevated Tannat to the next level delivering fantastic results.

Uruguay has a fairly high wine consumption I was told over 30 litre/person annually this is high by any standards, even compared to some European wine producing/drinking countries. Just out of curiosity I would really like to know how big is the annual maté consumption? Maté (or yerba) tea consumption is massive in Uruguay you see all the time people walking with the maté equipment on the street and drinking the tea, like other people smoke the Uruguayans drink their maté…

Wine consumption is good, however 80% of the produced wine is table wine quality only. And this is mostly very low quality wine, drunk chilled (with ice perhaps too) because otherwise it would be even worse.

The so called quality or fine wine bears the abbreviation of VCP which stands for Vinos de Calidad Preferente (it must have a minimum level of alcohol 12% and acidity and other things are also measured). Only 5% is consumed by the domestic market of this category. The domestic market prefers rather young, fruity (or even sweet), sweet rosés and muscatel like wines, this is the absolute opposite of the rich and heavy Tannat (which is the international calling card for Uruguay) and dry wines made of the noble varieties. There are still a lot of hybrids and American varieties in the vineyards but the National Vitivinicultural Institute (INAVI) is trying to change this.

Bulk wine sale is available widely, customers can fill up their demijohns at places with the cheap and rather “weak” wine at different places. It has to be pointed out of course that not everyone can afford the price of a quality wine yet talking about an excess stock because of over production which is mainly caused by over chaptalization (yes, you heard right enrichment in a place where alcohol is sufficient, thanks to nature), diluting the product is hardly acceptable. In 2005 only must was allowed for enrichment and no cane sugar anymore. Beside maté and wine (also sparkling wine) there is a huge whisky market as well in Uruguay. The wealthy people do like their Scotch, and according to some statistics they drink as much as the Argentinean, which has a far bigger population then Uruguay.

There is a lot of potential but Uruguay also suffers from lets call them “the usual” problems which a wine country can face. Customers who would need better salary and understanding to appreciate the quality wines what the country is able to produce. Wine makers who are willing to produce less but better quality and focusing further on the Tannat grape. I personally believe Uruguay is doing well as there are more then a handful of wine makers who export quality wine and if people turn their attention to Uruguay more people will be interested in making better wines. It’s a sort of circle. On the other side it takes time, and I can see more small boutique wineries emerging, delivering quality but I do hope the people of Uruguay will enjoy their own wines as well and not just the world. The food is fantastic (great meat cuisine) and this calls for good wine, like a Tannat! Salute.

Restaurant recommendations:
- Down at the pier is a meat market (very touristic area, watch out!) open during lunch, great selection of meat!
- Parrillada Trouville, Chucarro 1031 (beside an indoor Basketball court), great meat dishes made in front of you!

Another winery which visited and had a chance to talk at the LIWSF in 2007 was the Bodegas Castillo Viejo in Las Piedras.

I had an appointment with Maria Paula Vila from the export department.
The winery was founded in 1927 and the family has French descendents. It has 130 ha and the major part of the vineyards are 60 km away around San Jose which has mainly an acidic loan and clay based soil. The winery produces around 2 million litres of wine annually. Beside making still wine in all sort of quality categories they also do sparkling wine, according to the traditional method around 5000 bottles, out of the varieties: Chardonnay, Viogner and Sauvignon Blanc.

The white grapes are harvested during the night or the early morning, between 10pm and 6am to preserve acidity and aromas. The harvest daytime could reach during February 27-30°C says Maria while the night time temperature is only 12-15°C. Green harvest takes place at the winery, where 50% of the crop is cut down to maintain yields.

Cooling the must to 13-14°C general and the winery uses mainly concrete epoxy vats for fermentation. Maria was telling me an interesting price point where the 3 litre bottles get to sold off cheaper (around 5USD) then the regular 0,75 litre sizes which go for around 6USD. Now is this the same quality? Bottling under screw cap gets more popular for white and rosé wines, exporters ask for this. The winery ages its wines in a mix of French and American wood, two distinctive quality categories: the top range and reserva range. On this occasion I have not tasted any wine, but I shall look my notes up from the Wine Fair…

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