Aug 21 2009

In the spirit of the Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle

Published by Kristian Kielmayer at 5:31 pm under Nahe

The best of the Nahe wines have the minerality but with a bold fruit character and volcanic spice like character and good acidity. Diversity is huge, and thanks to the fact that more and more single vineyard wines are emerging, there is a revelation going on, a real deal. The days are over when Nahe wines had to use a different wine regions name to sell their wines. One of the most fantastic single vineyard sites with a lot of history and great quality is the Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle.

It had always a good reputation starting already in the 16. century. It used to have a very close connection to the State Domaine of Schlossböckelheim. According to the tax chart which was drawn back in 1901, Hermannshöhle was taxed with 600 silvergroschen, comparing the lower sites had to pay 15, only. Highest reputation was already granted by the finance ministry.

The name of Hermannshöhle has some legends. The most probable answer for the vineyard name is, however that the wording Hermann comes from the name Hermes (it got changed into German) who was a Roman God and protector of the travellers and messengers. Höhle meaning cave could have been the place where they stored the powder for the copper (Kupfer) mine. There is a little cave which could confirm this fact, on the other side in old German “Helda” means cave too.

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The little over 8 ha (8,55ha) is on the North side of the Nahe River just where the flow of the river is bending so does the vineyard of the Hermannhöhle forming a harmony with the river Nahe. The soil is quite complex from grey slate volcanic melaphyr and porphyr with sand stone and lower amount of clay. Rhyolite (quarzporphyr) and andesite (porphyr) which is high in pH, reflects heat well and mainly volcanic in origin.

While the lower part is more sandy. the upper part is volcanic and slate. The slope is between 30-45% steep and it has only Riesling planted. The vineyard is 130-175 m above sea level and south to South West facing. Beside the deep gray slate and the volcanic stone (as porphyr) there is a certain amount of limestone as well which counter balances the high pH, and there is a soft stony earthy soil as well. Only Riesling is planted on the Hermannshöhle. The major problem in the outstanding site is erosion.
The wines tend to have notes of minerality and spicy intensity and being never too full but rather elegant with potential of cellaring. Most of the rainfall happens in June and July in the region.

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While just next to the Hermannshöhle is the Niederhäuser Hermannsberg, the sites are only divided by a road and the mater of fact it´s a monopole site, belonging entirely to the Gutsverwaltung. The soil here is more a mix of loess and clay with a lot of rather fine earth and the lower parts have slate, beside Riesling there is also Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) planted and because of the cold air flows quickly down it tends to be very good Eiswein (ice wine) production site. While this is also a great site it should not be confused with the Hermannhöhle. Wines tend to be more straight forward with maybe a hint fuller and have lower notes on minerality.

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By visiting the site and tasting wine from several growers the greatness of the Hermannshöhle I can just confirme. The wines from Dönnhoff Estate, Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen and the Jakob Schneider family Estate always show superb minerality, racy acidity and plenty of fruit. On the other side I however still have to taste a Grosses Gewächs, a dry Grand Cru wine. While the sweet wines Beerenauslese´s and Auslese´s shows superb quality and amongst the best sweet wines in the world, there has to be more effort to put in making not only Spätlese quality wines, but a dry, real deal benchmark Riesling which I´m certain Hermannhöhle can deliver. Hermannhöhle wines need time, most people (including me) tend to be impatience and not waiting to enjoy the potential of the Hermannshöhle. On the other side the threat is always too big that the wine won’t be available as production is always small and demand is great. This is a good thing if you ask me, especially when you are amongst the lucky ones to have a few bottles in your cellar or at home to enjoy the wine. And believe me you will enjoy it, the spirit of the Hermannhöhle.

Tasted wines

11/06/08

Weingut Dönnhoff
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2007

Pale golden colour, closed nose. Soft peach and lime fruit with a ripe character and spice notes. Fairly sweet on the palate combination of pear and peach yet good acidity and minerality.

Gutverwaltung Niederhausen Schlossböckelheim
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2007

Ripe, bright nose with a lot of stone fruit with a spicy tickle to it. Clean ripe, lovely sweetness and very good acidity, complex and dense wine, pineapple, mango, fruity.

07/06/07
Jakob Schneider

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Hochgewächs trocken 2006
Hochgewächs referring to a high quality QbA Riesling wine which must have a higher Oechsle and higher general alcohol level as well. The finishing wine must also have a higher density and weight judged by a panel.
Pale lemon green colour, with a light citrus and lime note. Dry, crisp and refreshing. Clean citrus and lime drive with a good minerality, nice one.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese 2006 Edition 50:50
Quite a good sound on the nose, handsome full of stone fruit and a spicy juicy lime note. Fullish and with good intensity. Nahe, style with fresh acidity and minerality, fresh lime note with hand on minerality and good structure.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese Junior 2006
Fresh and great zip on the palate with a light lemon and lime note. Good acidity very ripe and superbly mixed, fun wine with good length and deepness to it. The razor sharp acidity cuts greatly through the ripe and sweet fruit.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Beerenauslese 2006
Golden colour with a pure botrytis on the nose very intense and good persistent style, pronounced tropical notes. Sweet attack (no wonder with 250 g/l RS), yet great acidity and plenty of fruit, rich and splendid density and high notes of tropical fruit, mango, passion, orange peel. Long and complex.

12/06/07

Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen Schlossböckelheim
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2006

Plenty of stone fruit yet sleek and a good note from the soil, minerality with a fiery spice character. There is enough sweetness in the wine yet it is well balanced with the acidity and fruit, good nerve, fairly deep and ripe finish.

Weingut Dönnhoff
Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese 2006

Tight, closed nose. Sweet on the palate, with a very ripe and clean fruit character. Clean cut, good acidity, juicy and delicious sweetness, fairly powerful sweetness on the finish, good attack.

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