Furmint is under the top 5 white grape varieties when it comes to quality wine making in the world.

Today there are only 2 major wine regions in Hungary who produce varietal dry Furmint. It is the primary grape in Tokaj-Hegyalja and a very important grape in the region of Somló. Said this there are other regions like the Zala (Balatonmelléke) which does produce some Furmint and the northern side of the Lake Balaton, like Badacsony and the Balaton Highlands (Balatonfelvidék). It used to be the major white grape variety around the lake (mainly Northern side) until the end of 19. century but phyloxera and then later the communist reign changed a lot. Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) replaced the Furmint at the Balaton and almost got extinct at Somló as well. But slowly, more and more producers realize that it is one thing to have Chardonnay, which by the way is all over the world now, but to do something unique is rather exciting and in for a noble cause comes with it. Dr. Sándor Tóth from the Balaton Highland agreed and pointed out, that back 60 years ago the best sites had Furmint planted and the so called Main Wine (Főbor) was made out of Furmint.

Hungary is running into a trap and it will be hard to come out, if they do not appreciate the outstanding quality of Furmint. It is not an easy variety to grow, late ripening, yield has to be controlled and planted at the right sites. Furmint likes to provide beside green/ripe apple, lime/lemon fruit-peel, peach and pear and definitely high acidity a certain mineral character as well (depending from the vineyard site). Considering the initial ripeness of the fruit, tropical sensations are also not all too uncommon. The balance is important, having the high acidity, minerality and fruit character all in balance. Historically it was grown on vineyards sites which were focusing on white varieties, soil of volcanic origin, hence Balaton-Highland, Somló, and Tokaj.

Looking at Tokaj-Hegyalja where some of the very best sweet wines are made in the entire world, some people argue there is no room for dry wines. István Szepsy proves otherwise, he is in the search of perfection, to make the very best dry Furmint or simply the best dry white generally out of Furmint, to be very correct. Now, we can be of one thing certain, dry wine was probably made from the early ages, from the Scythians onwards in the region. While the record of the very first noble sweet wine in whole world made with the noble rot (botrytis cinera) comes from Tokaj they must have made dry wines before. Some of the very first classification date back to the beginning of the 17. century.

Tokaj (Tokay) does not have an official vineyard classification at present. While they do have rules around the puttonyos aszu system, which is only for sweet wines, it is not based on vineyard site, but on sweetness levels and extract contain. Certain time of age was also mandatory in the past. What’s the story with the dry wines?

While there are a lot of single vineyard sites classified by wine makers, wine writers, merchants and consumers alike based mostly on historic evidence it is not official. I personally would love to see this very soon. Just to give a brief idea how (shall discuss this in further in a different article) I think it could be done with dry wines and sweet wines in Tokaj-Hegyalja alike.

While for the dry wines it is clear, there must be made 100% from a vineyard site if it has it on the label. For example Mádi Szent Tamás, while Mád is the town and Szent Tamás the vineyard. Mádi Szent Tamás Furmint, simple- 1st Growth site (I. dűlő). There are not many countries that have such a wide historical record on classified vineyard as Tokaj does, just put things together and use it, for the dry wines. Sure, there will be uproar, but this is normal.

Sweet wines, like aszú wines are a total different story. While people do get confused with the wine region Tokaj being entirely meant to be for sweet (fame is based on this) and only aszú wines, it would be a shame not to see outstanding dry wines too. Not only financially but also simply the joy to have great sweet and dry wines too. It’s like telling Beethoven not to compose more than one symphony as there is plenty of other music out there. We all would miss out. Look at the German wine regions they do it very successfully, even at the Mosel with Grosses Gewächs (great dry wine from 1st class, growth sites) and then Erste Lage Trockenbeerenauslese wines (noble sweet wines from 1st class, growth sites). Not everyone makes dry wines, but the people who can and believe in them, do.

As for an aszú wine or sweet szamorodni, the botrytis affected grapes can come from many different producers and therefore from many different sites I find it rather important that the property gets the classification. Further on the method of production justifies my proposal even more, as the base wine (or must) and botrytis grapes can again come from different sources. Therefore the finished wine (result) and the property  have to be classified. Revised every 5 or 10 years, while up- but also degrading is possible, based mainly on quality. Something like in Bordeaux, St Emilion (without the recent lawsuits).

Summary: for dry wines you classify the vineyard and for the sweet wines you classify the property.

On the western side of Hungary at the big Somló, things are different. Sweet wine is „history“, you hardly find any botrytized sweet wines. A region entirely based on dry white wine today. While there are producers who try red wine, this should remain simply as a hobby and more then miniscule in quantity. The wine region is small (ca.700ha), the smallest in Hungary, it is less in the lime light then others. This gives them maybe the opportunity to craft wines which a handful of people will appreciate, connoisseurs if you like. And they can do it, the wine region can boost some of the most amazing but not easy to understand whites. The acidity in the wines are generally very high, especially when you look at the Juhfark grape which hardly possesses much fruit character, a great starter gets rid of the dental deposit too. But be serious, the wines have a character, terroir which cannot be mistaken. Long way to get a proper vineyard/site classification, but many outstanding producers work just hard to make unique wines. Classification will come eventually as well. Things are less difficult here than in Tokaj. While the wine makers have to still focus on Furmint and recognize Hungarian varieties (e.g. Hárslevelű, Juhfark) are the only way to go, and not plant Marsanne or Viogner, try to imitate the Rhone or any other wine country, this would be foolish.

During my 2 day visit to the Buda Castle´s annual wine festival in 2009 I tried to get a little bit deeper into the topic of dry Furmint. While tasting a handful of wine this time mainly from the recent vintages I made some rather interesting –new- discoveries. Dry Furmint needs an instant, recognizable characteristic which puts it to the world’s grape/wine map. Hence, the high acidity should always be present, certain minerality too with either a steely, green apple, tart like attitude (especially when young) or in exchange for the green apple, ripe peach, pear hint of tropical notes are also welcomed (especially with a bit of age). Whether it should go through malo-lactic fermentation remains a question. But fact is, it does not appreciate new oak, buttery, oatmeal, butterscotch and overdose of vanilla from new oak should be taboo. I believe also Furmint is a one man show, and express its full beauty rather as a varietal. Some wine makers use injected yeast culture which is totally extraneous to Furmint. You simply should not use Chardonnay yeast culture to ferment Furmint, for instance. Oak must be used wisely and with intelligence. The date of picking is quite important beside the obvious yield management; yield control for dry Furmint should at least as thoughtful as for sweet wines. As a late ripening variety, it appreciates hang time, must degree is not everything, watching out for phenolic ripeness and not loosing acidity. I could imagine something like this: if harvest would take place over different periods, meaning having an early, middle and maybe a late harvest, the mix of the grapes if right, could provide everything needed. We don’t want fully botrytized grapes in a dry wine, but perhaps a little bit wouldn’t be wrong at all, maintain that the acidity is provided. Investigating picking and hang time could be worthwhile. I liked the result from Csordás-Fodor (see notes below) cold maceration and selected picking. Terms of vinification, there is no obvious answer weather steel or barrel, but I reckon Furmint appreciates the “kind” use of oak whether for fermentation or just of maturation, but careful selection of oak, as there is no need for oaky Furmints. I remember Hímesudvar from Tokaj used to do very oaky examples of Furmint, haven’t tasted them recently, however.

Furmint is versatile, exciting, and unique. It not only posses the spirit of the Hungarians but it is also the flagship grape and wine for Hungary not only when it comes to the noble sweet wines, but also in dry.

Tasting notes

Some of the dry Furmint wines (see also Tokaj Wines and Balaton and Somló wines too)

Béres Furmint 2007, Tokaj

We tasted this wine blind with my mentor Robert Cey-Bert in the Vinagoras wine competition „tent“. Medium straw yellow colour, ripe buttery, stone fruit almost tropical character on the nose, but very oaky indeed. Attractive minerality, the terroir is trying to come thru, but the oak surpresses it, intial though Tokaj second guess, oaky Chardonnay. The first tought was right, but the oak impact is just wrong. It has weight and density, but looses character and elegance.

Balassa Furmint Mézes-Mály Tokaj 2008

Light straw yellow colour, the nose has a certain mellow effect; don’t really know whether it’s gone thru total MLF, ripe apple and lemon peel, hint of spice from the soil. Youngish, dry and good, crisp acidity on the palate. The wine is his youth…

Balassa Furmint Mézes-Mály Tokaj 2006

Good straw yellow colour with ripe pear and stone fruit on the nose. Dry, vibrant acidity there is something of the soil in there a good expression of terroir, hint of spice and stone fruit. Ripe character, good finish. Soft and mellow thru. Fermented and aged in barrel for 8 months.

Babits Tokaji Furmint 2007

Light oxidative notes, some almond hint of yeast on the nose. 22° must degree at picking; spend over a year in barrel (old 220l-240l). Dry, crisp acidity – quite high actually there is a hint of wood attack, more tannin going on –fills the palate less oxidative note on the palate then on the nose.

Spiegelberg Furmint 2008, Somló Ilona dűlő

Pale colour, vanilla and creamy notes on the nose, oak is very distinctive, looks like new. Dry, lovely crisp and racy acidity, very good indeed. Ripe and soft juicy fruit, full notes, round, good shape.

Spiegelberg Furmint 2007, Somló Ilona dűlő

Deep golden colour, hint of oxidized tune, underlined with some peach and a whiff of mineral, fire stone character. Followed by chalky gunflint. Leaner fruit on the palate, yet minerality and a very vibrant acidity on the finish.

Kreinbacher Somló Szt Ilona Furmint 2007,

Pale straw yellow colour, creamy vanilla note with a mix of spice and minerality, the wood notes are evident, MLF too. Dry, ripe fruit still crisp on the palate, juicy lemon notes with a ripe finish.

Csordás-Fodor Selection Furmint 2007, Somló

Good golden colour, ripe botrytis notes, dense tropical character, good fruit drive. Big on the nose, very pronounced, love this ripe, hint of botrytis character while the minerality is still gorges and the wine is dry on the palate, but full and yet with the high acidity it combines the steely ripe character, very good marriage. Well done. After picking (low yield) the grapes got a cold soak overnight at 12 °C, 500 l vat. Fermentation happened at 17-22°C, in big oak barrels. RS: 2 g/l, TA: 8 g/l.

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