The Esterházy house dates back to the 14. century. A noble, aristocratic family possessing properties around the Lake Neusiedel and beyond. Today the cultural heritage is not only in Eisenstadt (the headquarter) and Fertöd the Hungarian side of the lake but also Castle Forchtenstein belongs to it and the foundation also owns the stone pit St. Margarethen which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The Prince Esterházy also appreciated music, Joseph Haydn famous composer lived and worked for around 40 years for the family in the 18. century. He quite often received his salary in wine…

The old cellar was beneath the palace Esterházy in the town centre of Eisenstadt, sort of tweedy I reckon is the word to describe it, or rustic could do well too, old fashioned and today more of a museum. Huge old wooden barrels in all sort of sizes, amongst them also one of the biggest oak barrels of Austria, which had to be fitted in the cellar itself, due to its size and tight space of the cellar itself. Wine was made under the command of the Esterházy family since the 17th century, records show that the first plantings of Pinot Noir from Burgundy arrived in 1758. Can Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder or Blauburgunder in German, Austrian respectively) be considered as a local variety? I don´t know, but one thing is almost certain it feels well in the area and adapted to the conditions quite well.

The wine region is called Burgenland (14.500 ha) or be more specific Neusiedler See Hügelland. While the bigger and flatter part is the Neusiedlersee (sandy, lighter soil flatter usually) region on the east side of the lake bordering Hungary, on the west side is the Hüggelland (older, gentle slopes, more loam and calcareous) bit. The international fame of the region lays in the sweet wine production but the domestic reputation and major share hold is that of red wine making. Similar at the Esterházy Winery which has most of the vineyards on the west side some amongst the Leitha hills (new DAC) on chalky soils.

The new winery is a few minutes by car from the centre of Eisenstadt in Trausdorf. State of the art, very modern building sticking out of the dull landscape. Inside high tech equipment or as some of the MW students put it the Royce Rolls of wine making is present.

Stainless steel tanks, computer controlled fully monitored gear, expensive oak barrels and gravity force used for smooth handling. All in place and more, a very, ultra modern winery, everything is given to make the best wines.
Another important factor is the right people. Elisabeth Kamper general manager worked previously for Wine & Co and Hawekso big German wine Merchant she brings the expertise and international experience and knowledge. She was also in charge to bring the newly appointed wine maker, cellar maser Josef Pusch on board. He worked in the past for names as FX Pichler and Tement. A team of highly motivated and result driven people in the winery of Esterházy. The master mind and chairman of the Esterházy foundation is dr. Stefan Ottrubay -who unfortunately was not present on the very evening when we visited the winery. But without doubt there is a great vision and determination, then not only is the Esterházy foundation involved in numerous projects like: art, culture and much more and this not only in Austria but on international level as well. To shake up the wine business, revitalize and super charge it adds further to the credits. I’m convinced -and I’m not just saying this because the winery was a wonderful host and supports the Institution- it will soon make some of the most astonishing wines (in good quantities they have 65ha), reds, sweets alike not only in Austria but also gain international reputation and acclaim. They already laid the foundations and proved to be capable.

Certainly, some of the vineyards need an overhaul (haven’t visited them), but according to Josef Pusch some work has still to be done in the field, while the winery has to most modern technology the planting density and cultivation methods are still not as they would like, hence the major work now will be made in the vineyards.

Three different labels, three different categories when it comes to wine. Under the classic label the main varieties are Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling and Blaufränkisch, the Estoras is the mid segment and the top wines or flagship ones are the single Cru´s like Scheiderteil vineyard Merlots and Tesero a blend of the very best. The winery does also some schnapps (eaux de vie), sparkling wine and a few other delicious products like “lekvár” (Hungarian for marmalade).

As mentioned above (and see below the tasting notes) the wines are very good, they perhaps have a touch too much of international attitude especially when it comes to the non Austrian varieties, like Merlot with strong emphasis put on the oak barrels. If any of that Merlot comes up in a blind tasting, like a MW exam (please don’t!) I would probably miss Austria badly as a potential option.

The winery is on the fast lane, top equipment and competent personal is in charge with a great vision and determination to make some of Austria’s´ best red and sweet wines. Look out for them!

Tasting notes 20/01/2010
Esterházy Winery Burgenland
Merlot 2009
It gone through MLF on the 23rd December. Purple colour, with a bright red fruit character on the nose, full oak notes starting to come through, yet plenty of red fruit in hot pursuit. The alcohol is a bit too warm right now – sure it will settle- unbalanced right now, yet ripe fruit-. 22 KMW, 15,2 % ABV.
Drink 2014-2021

Merlot 2008
Quite smoky on the nose, full of red fruit, raspberry, plum, redcurrant. Full bodied on the palate, soft tannins yet very marked, bright and full, lot of sunshine coming through, plum, redcurrant and a lot of oak notes. Toast, smoke mixing with the ripe fruit. 13,8% ABV, bottled in June.
Drink 2013-2020

Merlot 2007
Very international style of Merlot, similar to the 2008, could come from any where. Smoky spice notes (Ethyl-4-guaiacol?) but also a disctinct character of high tuned barrel notes, toast furfural notes of almond. Full ripe fruit on the palate, softer tannin base then 2008, good concentration and dense finish.
Drink 2011-2018

Merlot 2006
Bright floral, elegant perfume with red fruit combination on the nose. Soft oak notes (yet plentiful), lush tannin and good density. Touch of savoury element beside the plentiful fruit present on the palate plum, cherry but also some elements of dried fruit taking part in the game. Rich finish, and warm notes of fruit good tannin structure.
Drink now – 2017

Pinot Noir 2007
Red fruit, sweet ripe fruit with quite a bit of oak to begin with. Medium acidity, soft supple fruit, raspberry, cherry some blueberry. Very round wine with an elegant note to it. Some people say Pinot Noir does well here, I do not disagree….
Drink now-2015

Blaufränkisch Föllig 2007
Ruby colour, menthol and eucalyptus note on the nose. Fresh acidity on the palate, bit herbaceous but lovely dark berried fruit composition, damson, cherry soft tannins, good and fairly full bodied finish.
Drink now-2016

Tesoro 2007
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Deep ruby colour, lots of dark berried fruit, seems that Cabernet is leading here right from the beginning. Bramble, cassis with some cinnamon peppermint and very ripe fruit and notes spicy and smokiness coming from the oak. Beside the expensive oak there is a lot of fruit, serious wine, a big but with finesse. Yet the full on tannins must settle with the fruit in the debate.
Drink 2013-2026

Welschriesling Scheurebe 2007 TBA
Golden colour, rich and pronounced nose. Tropical, botrytis, honey whiff of perfume. Sweet, good acidity, but not too crisp, medium alcohol, popping fruit, ripe pear, peach with a light floral finish. Good balance and fine tuned ending.
Drink now – 2030

Blaufränkisch Eiswein 2008
Golden colour (yes it’s a red variety), sweet honey and notes of mango, pear, peach, supple on the nose. Good acidity, vibrant stone fruit with a touch of mango and honey and a whiff of spice on the nose finish. Complex.
Drink now – 2028

Cuvée TBA 2008
Don’t exactly know what the blend is. But fuller then the Welschriesling-Scheurebe combo above, also fresher acidity and more botrytis notes. Deep golden colour, pronounced tropical maracuja, pineapple, touch of ripe melon and apple. All the way fresh and vibrant with a full note on the palate, ripe and rich botrytis, very good and long finish, complex.
Drink now – 2040

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