Mar 20 2010
New mountain on the horizon and the Pannobile
On the foothill of the Leitha mountain from the town of Grosshöflein through Eisenstadt along the B50), Purbach, Jois to the north eastern tip of the lake Neusiedl and the same town stretches this new DAC region. New in a way that it was end of last year when it received its controlled status. Where the Leithaberg stops stars a new bit of vineyard on the Parndorfer plateau and the best wine makers come under the name of Pannobile.
DAC meaning Districtus Austriae Controllatus, quality controlled origin and protection of origin. The Austrian Agricultural ministry or to be more precise Agriculture, Forestry, Environment, and Water Economy department within the ministry of Austria signed off the bill.
To be called Leithaberg DAC the wines must be made with grapes from the wine region. Only varieties Chardonnay, Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Neuburger and Grüner Velteliner must be used. While for reds the permitted varieties are: Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir. For both red and white wine the individual blends of the above wines are allowed to make, yet only from the mentioned varieties. Bottling must happen in glass bottles and crown capsule as a closure is not permitted. The alcohol has to be between 12,5%- 13,5% ABV. While chaptalization is not overly common in Austria yet the law does not mention this under the alcohol section. Malic acidity must not be higher then 0,5 g/l for red wines and must be vinified dry, or not over 2,5 g/l residual sugar. The wine is only to be released (and not earlier) after the 1st September the year after the vintage. The wine is to be tasted by a panel before release and should have the characteristics of the region. Which is looking at the descriptors in the bill seemed a bit broad for my taste (spicy, elegant, notes of minerality, low oak influence, fruit driven on the nose, etc.).
But I reckon the tasting itself will tell if it is allowed to proceed as a Leithaberg wine.
The total of the planted vineyard area is around 3500 ha on 300 m altitude on slate and limestone, south facing. An ancient sea bed lies beneath the mountain range full of fossils and gneiss, the main formation is however the chalk or limestone with sandy clay.
As the wine makers here say the limestone with its bright colour reflects the sun rays well producing leaner and more elegant wines, while the one on the slate which stores some heat produce somewhat fuller wines.
Just a quick note on the side, before the phyloxera rampage there were grapes planted such as Furmint, Leányka but also Kadarka. These were also some of the most traditional Hungarian varieties and well known of course in the most western part of the country. The main reason as I understood from the wines and presentation on the Leithaberg to make it a separate DAC within the Neusiedlersee Hügelland wine region in Burgenland was the unique soil formation. Rich in shell fossils, gneiss and slate in the mid soil, while the top part is rich in fossil and rich in limestone. It is also called Leitha-lime, high in calcium carbonate. Further on some it is reckoned that the soil minerality adds to the wines spicy character which is recalled as “minerality”. Hence the minerality in the wine. There is some brown loam, rich in iron therefore also a distinctive colour of oxidation, red-brownish. The soils are high in potassium, especially around Purbach.
Another important factor when it comes to the “terroir” is the weather. There is a distinct Pannon climate as the locals say, 600-700 mm rainfall, mild spring, comes quicker then in most other regions. Warm winds from the east during summer, cold North West winds are protected by the large forest. And the lake acts as a hear regulator, very efficient.
Looking back at the tasting 21st January at Gut Purbach (tasting notes will follow), distinctive mark was the high acidity, sometimes very high, slight peppery and citrus/lime fruit character in the whites. Sometimes the Chardonnay had a very ripe tropical mark, leesy note yet oak was often present in this case too. In terms of red, focusing on Blaufränkisch had a similar fairly high acidity trademark (5,5 – 6 g/l TA), fairly fullish alcohol content always above 13% ABV and the mark of the grape, capsicum/pepper and mint notes.
The Parndorfer Plateau is between the Leitha and Hundsheimer mountains, famous for its loess composition. Quite a windy region, no wonder therefore the wind machines in the area to make energy. Just 160-180 m above sea level, the main vineyard area is around the North Eastern part of the lake stretching to almost todays Hungarian boarder. Compared to the Leithaberg the exposure of the vineyards are different but not necessarily the soil formation. It is a contrast in a different way while the producers of the Leithaberg are formed a DAC the producers here can belong to a group of elite wine makers the so called Pannobile. Protecting nature, a sort of organic philosophy within the vineyard, no injected yeast culture, artificial oak notes, adding of tannins or must concentrate are amongst the guide lines.
While looking at the map the singe vineyard boundaries are clearly defined mainly due to soil differences as I understood it, yet on the other side very little is produced under single vineyard labelling. And to be honest its virtual insider information what is exactly beneath the surface and even more how does it reflect in the wine. Lucky enough for some of us MW students Matthias Leitner the head of the family winery took us for a ride in the snow fed vineyards. While his winery is in the town of Gols, he recalls the best sites here are Ungerberger (he does a single vineyard wine out of this site!), Salzberger, Schafleiten and Alte Satz. Sandy loam with fossil limestone. To highlight the Ungerberg climat with in the first 25 cm there is a loam, silt, rich in lime contain. From 50 cm starts a coarse clay and silt, sandy.
We were briefly discussing classification Matthias said he would see something like in Bordeaux, my response was something like in Burgundy in the Cote d´Or for example would be more appropriate if you classifying soil and mainly vineyard. While of course Bordeaux AC very much considers soil and even more the Crus Classés, but there are no single vineyard names known to the producers neither have I seen a map with names attached to them, just soil (e.g. gravel, clay) vineyard plots and property. It makes little sense to me to have a myriad of vineyard names and not harvest and of course vinify separately to show the real differences within between.
The winery has 12 ha planted, biggest percentage are the reds led by Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt amongst the internationally also well known varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot but also Syrah. Under the whites which present only 10% of the total production are Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Blanc. The later quite a remarkable example, spend quite a bit of time in oak and significant lees contact give this wine structure, density and depth. Whether Syrah is a good choice is a question but Matthias planted it a few years ago just to try it out and he was pleased with the result. The annual production is 70.000 bottles.
Matthias was explaining that the winemakers of the Pannobile work together funded by the individuals for diverse events nation wide but also on the foreign market, representation and the working as a unity is very positive.
The harmony is important when it comes to good work and it seemed that while the neighbours Leitha DAC – Pannobile have a quite different approach for success, grape varieties, appellation approach and much more, I must say it seems to work. The strength lies within the individuals to work as a team and move forward.
Tasting notes (to follow)