Nov 28 2011
Chateau Prieure – Lichine direct sale in Cantenac
Grand history
The Chateau Prieure Lichine has a long history is goes back to the Benedict monks when they started to cultivate 2 ha in the Margaux district. The estate gradually grew when Mr. Lichine took over in 1951, it changed from being 20 ha to 60 ha. Since 1999 it belongs to the Balland group. It is however still very fragmented with lots of individual plots spread around the Margaux appellation.
The vineyards
The estate is very fragmented with the 70 ha is split in 132 plots and 60 groups of land, the chateau considers 20 different vinifications, making the wine from the vineyard is not homogenous at all. Not an easy task from harvest co-ordination to the winery and beyond such as blending.
The Grand Cru wines get to vinified in concrete vats, this slows down the alcoholic fermentation and the so called “gas exchange” is better. The other advantage is certainly cheaper, cheaper compared to a same sized stainless steel vat. In the past there use to be a problem when the concrete extracted water molecules and acidity. Not to mention the porosity and the threat of oxidation if the wine runs out. However, today the cover is epoxy which protects the wine and environment. Acidity is 7 hence it’s neutral and has all the benefits for deep and slow expression during fermentation.
The teachings of Master August
If I understood Ulrich Memleb well he was talking about the main rules of the past cellar masters of Latour. Master August. Wine should be considered as human beings, it does live.
The first point is the quality starts in the field. Second never loose the children in the adult or in other ways never let the oak over power your wine. Last but not least you not make a scientist out of your son if you send him to a sport school.
Well said. You have to decide what style and wine do you want to make. Give the wine a certain personality and stick to it. Adapt the character and share the values. Sounds a bit philosophical but wine is part of this.
If you’re called Lafite show some power and depth or if you’re Palmer show elegance, finesse. Adapt your winemaking regime to this as well, oak vs. stainless steel and so on.
Lichine looks for certain depth and silkiness, the process of maturing together should be slow. That’s one of the reasons why they decided to use concrete vats. Epoxy can crack as well and there is quite a waiting list for vats. The good thing is you don’t loose much space in the winery because of their size.
Picking happens in 20 litre boxes, no destemming yes but no crushing. During the cold maceration the juice liberates the fruit. It happens at 10°C and then the heating later goes up at fermentation to 28°C. The concrete will slow down the vinification yet through it fairly big size you would have to use quite a bit of must in the process of making the wine. Otherwise the size would just not justify itself. Yet if you work with small batches you loose quite a bit of energy not to mention water for cooling down, etc.
The alcoholic fermentation takes place 8-12 days and the MLF happens in barrel. The annual production is around 400, 000 bottles, 65 ha of the 70 is in the Margaux appellation.
The first wine usually has Cabernet Sauvignon for structure and body, Merlot for roundness and fruit. Some Petit Verdot and no Cabernet Franc. The Franc gets vinified in stainless steel for the second wine.
The whites are necessary to mention as well. Semillon 20% and Sauvignon Blanc 80%, one night maceration and alcoholic fermentation takes place in new barrels, while aging in old burgundy oak. The chateau uses of course only French oak which come from 8 different coopers. Depending on the vintage sometimes micro oxidation is also used for instance for 2 minutes then stopped for 30 seconds and continued. The Grand Cru red ages for 18 months while the second red for 14 months, the whites spend between 6-9 months on oak. Only 40-60% is new oak, while with the second wine only 20%.
Direct selling and final note
Well it’s quite unusual you would say for a classified growth to engage in direct selling in cellar door sale. The estate does this since more then 3 years but only 7% sells like this. The majority still goes through the Place the Bordeaux.
Great wine is depending on many factors, the land, the climate the people and things around you which you cannot always see…
Or as Master August said in his teachings: to make a great wine, you need great water and great care.



