Jun 30 2015

The aromatic white wines of Badacsony

Published by at 8:34 pm under Balaton and Somlo,Hungarian Wine

The (aromatic white) wines of Badacsony

I have been a long advocate to put more emphasize on the fragrant, fruity and aromatic white wines. Especially in Hungary where 67% of the planted grapes are white and the majority of them is aromatic or at least semi-aromatic. While there are some outstanding varieties which are categorized as neutral such as the Furmint, Kéknyelű and perhaps even the Olaszrizling yet there are such a diversity from Muscat based wines, old and new bred varieties to several very locally grown varieties. Badacsony stands out in many respect when we talk about varieties and soil.

Kéknyelű, Budai Zöld and the Vulcanus, Rózsakő  are virtually not found anywhere else but only here. According to the recent statistics the leading variety of the Badacsony region is still the Olaszrizling (635 ha) followed by the Szürkebarát (Pinot gris: 200 ha). Red varieties are increasing Pinot Noir (72 ha) followed by Cabernet Sauvignon (32 ha). The region has over 60 different varieties which is obviously too much by all means. However it’s great to see that Rózsakö (Rose stone), cross between Kéknyelü and Budai. The two varieties which are planted usually together since Kéknyelü needs a pollinating partner. Named after the legendary stone on the top of the Badacsony mountain. Vulcanus another cross made in Badacsony from Szürkebarát and Budai.

There is a lot of diversity in the region and while Badacsony shares a certain spicy, mineral crisp style never too heavy, yet it still needs to cut down somewhat on varieties. Find out what suits the region at best and makes the most typical wine as well. Personally I do believe in some of the above, unique varieties such as Kéknyelü (despite being neutral) and Szürkebarát (semi aromatic) and the crosses such as Vulcanus and Rózsakö. Which are slowly proving that they can produce quality wines as well.

It´s still a long way to go but the wines are certainly improving not just quality but also consistency.

Tasted wines 26/3/2015

Nyári Pince

Cserszegi fűszeres 2013

Pale lemon colour light floral touch and hint of creamy note, elegant. Dry  sturdy mineral note, zesty lemon good depth salty tangy terroir driven. Good finish, lime perfume. Bright fine notes high acidity.

Drink now

Olaszrizling 2013

Pale lemon colour fresh neutral some almond citrus floral. Moderate acidity round well balanced fresh citrus hint of salt, good mid palate long. Touch creaminess in the middle.

Drink now – 2016

Rajnai rizling 2012

Fresh oily nose rich dense expressive gorgeous. Dry fresh acidity juice lemon rich mid palate, creamy texture. Perfume very elegant, bold some vanilla, creamy smooth surface. 500 l Hungarian oak used for 8 months.

Drink now – 2020

Hárslevelű 2013

Medium deep lemon colour. Rich and elegant nose, linden pronounced notes. Orange peel sweet nose lovely pure ripe fruit of breakfast rich. Expressive nose rich palate full on bright zesty fresh juicy lemon rich pear orange peel confiture very long finish high alcohol. Heat at the end with fiery attack 15% abv.

Drink now – 2020

Csobánci Bormanufaktura

Olaszrizling 2014

Cheesy wet stone wild herbs on the nose. Fresh some nutty simple flavours almond, medium body.

Drink now

Gilgames 2011

Blend of Syrah and Merlot, odd combination must say. Spice and red fruit core on the nose. Juicy and fruity, high tannins and round flavour profile, moderate finish.

Drink now – 2016

Weller

Spumante Vulcanus

Midsized bubbles. Soft nose some spicy and honey aromas.

Off dry spicy, waxy and herbal touch with some delicate floral hints on the nose. Juicy citrus and lime on the palate, moderate finish medium intense.

Drink now

Zeus 2013

Honey and acacia and honeycomb with distinct aromatic touch. Dry, honey and round with softer acidity. Ripe hint of pepper and sweet fruit core with touch of rusticity.

Drink now – 2017

Bakó Ambrus

Olaszrizling szőlőskert 2013

Very pale colour. Neutral on the nose, fresh and juicy lemon in the background. Hint of almond and honey (fresh) combination. Dry light body fresh and simple easy going with clean finish.

Drink now

Rajnai Rizling szőlőskert 023\18 2013

Lemon green colour. Spice juicy lemon slowly opening nose. Some fire stone in combination with the fruit. Dry zesty, sturdy, very fresh and intense, however. Lovely freshness till the end with good depth.

Drink now – 2020

Szent György Pince

Rózsakő 2014

Pale colour. Neutral nose. Hint of floral and cool ferment notes, milky, fruit drop. Clean crisp fresh light delicate simply fruity light finish.

Drink now

Vulcanus 2014

Pale lemon colour. Fresh delicate fresh notes simple. Fruity fresh clean and crisp. Round some firestone, minerality with fruity core bright round good zesty finish.

Drink  now

Laposa Family Estate

Pinot noir rose 2014

Very pale salmon colour. Fresh and light nose. Fruity and simple on the end, easy to drink.

Drink now

Rizling2 2013

Just Riesling. Pale lemon colour. Floral fresh start with juicy bright citrus and lime drive. Dry, nutty almond nutty core, pancake. Fresh acidity on finish, good nerve and vibration till the end.

Drink now – 2019

Szürkebarát 2013

Very pale lemon green colour. Floral and fresh honey. Dry fresh round acidity floral hint of honey fresh marmalade like note (pear, apricot) moderate acidity, round simple finish.

Drink now – 2018

Bazalt cuvee 2013

Olaszrizling Szürkebarát Kéknyelű.

Floral, mint and spice, cool drive. Fresh lemon zest some almond spice delicate zesty finish. Smooth drinking.

Drink now – 2018

2ha

Szürkebarát 2013

Golden colour. Rich oaky notes led by intense buttery, creamy almost a bit of rancio character here. Half new 225 l: 6-7 months.

Lovely soft notes, buttery creamy, round not too full almond, coffee medium finish decent freshness.

Drink now – 2018

Shiraz 2012

Deep colour. Meaty rich smoky dense notes, full on. Spice smoky Xmas cake spice is showing up. Lovely vanilla medium body round notes, smooth tannins. Sweet oak rich full notes on the palate, intense touch, round elegant clean fruit.

Drink now – 2022

Courage merlot 2012

Good deep ruby colour. Smoky, spice, meaty, rich bold red fruit and spice. Multi- layered pronounced spice and ripe fruit, rich elegant black berry, mulberry, damson and dark plum and cherry. Multi dimensional good layers. Fresh bit unfinished but good depth.

Drink 2016 – 2024

Málik Pince

Zeus 2012

Intensive nutty herbal touch on the nose. Rich spice mineral zesty citrus and lime, some rusticity at the finish.

Drink now

Németh Pince

Rózsakő 2014

Fresh floral clean intense cool fruit on the nose. Clean tuti fruity, pear drop, pineapple fresh zesty notes. Light body fresh finish with a certain feminine touch. Big 500-800 l oak neutral.

Drink now

Zsályás

Blend of Rózsakő and Szürkebarát 2014

Lemon colour. Juicy fresh bright notes. Fruity pear and peach. Very cool fruit fresh lemon squeeze hint of bitterness at end. Bright fruity mid palate finish slightly off dry note, bitter touch.

Drink now

Rózsakő 2013

Pale lemon colour.  Fruity floral fresh delicate. 17 g/l rs, off dry bright fresh zesty crisp lean fruity cool floral citrus finish light body.

Drink now

Olaszrizling 2004 (Zúzmarás)

Golden colour. There is a mix of freshness and oxidative touch as well. Honey, spice on the nose, round delicate. Nutty, herbal, sweet mouth feel (80 g/l RS), elegant, soft acidity. Drinks well, interesting hint of honey and almond with sweet fruit core, fresh finish.

Drink now – 2018

Istvándy Pince

Kéknyelű 2013

Very pale lemon green. Clean nose. Fresh bright zesty fine acidity. Good minerality, fine back bone, neutral style but fairly rich with a lemon finish.

Drink now – 2018

Hárslevelű 2013

Lemon colour. Honey, floral delicate seductive nose. Hint of perfume on the palate as well. Dry fresh, elegant linden leaf aromatics. Medium finish good bright clean fruit, fresh mineral style hint of pepperiness and good layers of fruit.

Drink now – 2021

Villa Sandahl (just Riesling´s)

Gold standard 2013

Floral fresh delicate nose. Crisp fresh juicy lemon bright hint of almond dark berried zesty juicy grapefruit.

Drink now – 2018

All of a kind 2013

Some botrytis on the nose “visible”. Lemon colour some citrus fresh juicy but slightly muted. on the nose. Hint of residual sugar, round lime lemon core sweet touch intense good brightness medium body. Pure and crisp underlines by the lemon character, mineral backbone, crisp.

Drink now – 2020

Elephant tank 2012

Lemon colour with citrus spice fire stone orange peel some orange zest lime and lemon touch. Round juicy lime fresh mint and herbal quality with lemon stone fresh lime zest. Medium finish smooth yet only moderate finish.

Drink now

Rake and Scoop 2012

Lemon colour some citrus fresh bright zesty fine grapefruit nose. Dry with zesty lime and lemon intense bright fresh notes medium finish with some mineral ethereal mint finish bright lemon almond touch. Fairly long finish with nerve.

Drink now – 2020

Csendes dűlő szőlőbirtok

Olaszrizling 2012

Lemon colour neutral nose. Citrus subtle clean neutral note elegant round simple some nutty good concentration. Fine fresh finish, uncomplicated.

Drink now

Kéknyelű 2013

Lemon colour neutral herbal spice reflecting minerality. Neutral on palate with fresh and bright acidity, medium body. Slowly opening, dill and fennel with dash of lime at the finish.

Drink now – 2018

Hárslevelű 2013

Lemon colour. Slowly opening bit reductive under the screw cap but worth the wait. Dry fresh acidity with good depth, subtle and fresh acidity lime, linden, pear, peach. Juicy finish.

Drink now – 2020

Hárslevelű 2012

Lemon colour. Oily crunchy, bright intense stone fruit rich nose. Shares typicity of variety yet with plenty of intense mineral character. Bold and ripe fruit with finesse and elegance. Long and concentrated finish.

Drink now – 2022

Fischer

Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Fresh and fruity note. Bright lemon and lime with hint of elderflower. Easy notes.

Drink now

Szeremley Birtok

Muscat Ottonel 2013

Bright perfume fresh and floral. Elegant and delicate not too intensive but with a fine mineral twist. Medium finish and crisp.

Drink now

Szászi Birtok

Zeus 2013

Lemon colour. Perfume delicate floral very intense nose elegant from the start to the end. Lime zest, perfume delicate and bright nose fine lees texture good depth. There is richness and concentration hint of peach and almond.

Drink now – 2020

Rózsakő 2014

Late harvest tank sample 8g /l rs 10 TA. Cool ferment own yeast rich perfume peach floral orange peel comfitures rich nose with depth. Leesy note. Off dry (at least it feels like it) very fresh intense bold fruit vivid, lemon squeeze, juicy, very intense bold concentration. Intense attack ripe full hint of bitter almond grapefruit rich sweet note fleshy.

Drink 2016- 2022

Cabernet Sauvignon  2014

Pale salmon colour. Fresh fruit round notes. Dry good balance drinks well good fruit. Smooth. Uncomplicated.

Drink now

Villa Tolnay

Rajnai Rizling 2013

Lemon green colour. Perfumed stone fruit and citrus lime notes. Dry with crisp juicy and lime notes. Round with bold peach and fine fruit hint of minerality. Fairly long finish.

Drink now – 2020

 

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